So, you’re visiting Nova Scotia! You’re going to hear so many suggestions to spend time in Halifax, visit the Annapolis Valley, head to the South Shore or go to Cape Breton (you can’t go wrong with any of those suggestions!). However, we’ve got a different idea for you.
A bit more off the beaten path (and sadly often overlooked!) is the Eastern Shore. Stretching just east of Halifax all the way down to Canso (very close to Cape Breton) is the Marine Trail. With winding roads all along the Atlantic Ocean, you’ll encounter so many traditional fishing villages, historic towns and stunning stretches of beaches.
We recently spent four days discovering this area of Nova Scotia (for the first time) and have come up with the perfect itinerary.
DAY 1:
You’ll likely be departing for your road trip from Halifax. You’ll head out through Dartmouth and eventually hit the number 7 highway. On this trip we immediately made our way to Sheet Harbour but if you have extra time on your hands there are some great places to stop.
If you’re like us and adore beaches, you’ll find some great options on this drive. Conrad’s beach is one of our favourites near the city, Lawrencetown Beach is a surfer’s mecca, along the way you’ll also pass by the longest beach in Nova Scotia, Martinique.
The village closest to Martinique Beach is a great stopping point, Musquodoboit Harbour. Uprooted Cafe and Market is a good option for picking up lunch, some local produce, or a coffee.
We made our way directly to Sheet Harbour where we checked into our amazing accommodations (Marmalade Motel - more on that later) and picked up the picnic lunch they’d packed for us (it can be added to your stay). While in Sheet Harbour we visited Artists of the Eastern Shore Park, where we found some tables to enjoy our incredible picnic and then took a short walk along West River Falls. You could easily spend an hour or so here on a casual walk, admiring the cascading waterfalls, pedestrian bridge and boardwalk.
As the foggy weather (typical for this part of the province) began to improve we decided to hit up a beach we’d had on our list for ages. We’ve seen so many incredible photos of the crystal clear water and white sand beach at Taylor Head Provincial Park, we had very high expectations. While the weather didn’t entirely cooperate it made for an unexpected moody vibe to our beach visit as the sun made an appearance but fog continued to circle around us. We definitely intend to head back on a fully sunny day to experience the beach in all its glory.
Where to stay:
We stayed at the Marmalade Motel, about a 15 minute drive past Sheet Harbour. The Marmalade Motel has been recently purchased and renovated and the new owners have done an amazing job. It’s one of the most stylish and unique motels we’ve stayed in and they’ve added so many great features that it feels like so much more than a motel. As well as the picnic lunch add on, you also have the option of “pizza night”. Outside you’ll find a wood-fired pizza oven, and they’ll provide you with the dough and all your toppings. You have the fun job of putting together your pizza and watching it cook in the oven.
DAY 2:
Since the Sheet Harbour area has so much to offer we spent our second day here as well. Breakfast was provided by the motel which gave us time to have a relatively leisurely morning before heading out on a tour with Sober Island Boat Tours.
The boat tours start at different times depending on the tides, during our visit noon worked best. The boat tour took about 1.5 hours (perfect in our opinion), you’ll be taken on a local fishing boat which they use to fish in the winter season and for tours during the high season. We made our way through the 100 Wild Islands of the Eastern Shore and saw so many sea birds, eagles, seals and we even lucked out with a whale sighting! The experience was both relaxing and informative, the water was calm, and it was the perfect way to spend a Nova Scotian afternoon.
After our boat tour we visited Sober Island Brewing. Right in the centre of Sheet Harbour (you can’t miss it), Sober Island Brewing has a tasting/tap room as well as a beer garden, fantastic on a warm, sunny afternoon. They also gave us a quick tour of the facilities where we found out more about their beer making process.
Right next door is a must-eat restaurant while in the area, the Henley House. They have a diverse and delicious menu and a great patio to enjoy your food and drinks. We tried the maple curry chicken penne as well as the burger, we’ve also heard great things about their fish and chips.
For the second night we also stayed at the Marmalade Motel.
Watch the YouTube video of our first two days on the Eastern shore:
DAY 3:
After having breakfast and checking out of the motel, we made our way further along the Eastern Shore. The coast here is like nothing you’ll see in the rest of the province. Driving along the #7 highway you’ll come across untouched, authentic fishing villages, and a rugged coast with many small inlets around every turn.
We stopped at Nova Scotia’s largest museum, Sherbrooke Village. Here you’ll be transported back in time to a working town of 1867. Costumed “interpreters” essentially go about living their daily lives while you get a glimpse of what it was like to live and work in that era. There’s a post office, jail, courthouse, schoolhouse, doctor’s office and so much more. A highlight for us was visiting the blacksmith and watching him create a hook for us, which he forged in a very hot fire.
While in Sherbrooke we stopped in a cafe very close to the museum called Beanie’s Bistro. Here they serve coffee as well as sandwiches, soups and salads. Our food was delicious but be aware they currently close at 2 pm so plan accordingly.
Where to stay:
We arrived in Guysborough and checked into the beautiful and historic DesBarres Manor Inn. This mansion dates back to the 19th century and is one of the most stately accommodation options you’ll find in the province. We stayed in the Wolfe Room, a Premier Room on the second floor. It had a huge king sized bed, sitting area, fireplace and large bathroom. If you need another excuse to stay here, their dining room is one of the best restaurants to eat at in the area. We typically attempt to order different dishes but the pork tenderloin sounded so delicious we both ended up ordering it (spoiler alert, it was fantastic!).
DAY 4:
On our last full day on the Eastern Shore we thankfully only had to move a few minutes up the road. DesBarres Manor is part of the Authentic Seacoast family, however, down the road you’ll find their full complex including a brewery, coffee roaster and distillery. They also have a small motel. Most recently they’ve opened Yurts in the Vineyard. We lucked out and were able to check in early which gave us the opportunity to spend the entire day there. This was one of our favourite and unique stays in all of 2021. Yurts in the Vineyard only recently opened and we were one of the first to stay. Unfortunately, we came about a week too early as they still had a few things to complete (hot tubs are currently being added to each yurt deck and the sauna is now up and running), we still had an absolutely amazing stay but the additions would be the icing on the cake.
We stayed in yurt #10, which is the most private yurt situated on its own peninsula. The yurt itself is insulated so you can stay year round. The bathroom was just being completed as we arrived but is in a separate building and has a large sink, composting toilet and shower. This was our very first off-grid experience and we thoroughly enjoyed it. The yurt itself is up on a large deck and outside you’ll find a barbecue and picnic table. Since we stayed, they’ve added a wood fired hot tubs to the deck. Yurt #10 is the farthest from the main building and they therefore give you a golf cart for your own usage in order to get around. Also on your own private peninsula you’ll find a fire pit. We spent hours in the evening sitting around the fire admiring the amazing night sky. There is next to no light pollution making this the perfect location for stargazing. We also managed to time our visit with a meteor shower.
If staying on your own peninsula isn’t enough. The huge grounds have a lot to offer. You can rent kayaks and take them around the calm inlet. There is also a sauna just adjacent to a small pond, allowing you to heat up in the sauna and cool down with a nice swim.
You can’t miss the main building (you’ll check in here) which also houses a distillery, brewery and coffee roaster. We stopped in for a beer and spirits tasting on their patio.
Staying in an off-grid yurt was definitely a highlight of our summer and we’ll absolutely be going back. If you’re looking for a unique, luxury, glamping experience this is definitely the place for you.
Watch the YouTube video of the second half of our time on the Eastern Shore:
Final thoughts:
Ending in Guysborough also leaves you at a great jumping off point to explore other parts of the province. You’re very close to the Canso Causeway which links Cape Breton to the mainland of Nova Scotia. You can also easily make your way to the Northumberland Shore, another area with so much to offer (including the warmest beach water you’ll find in the province).
We had a fabulous four day trip to the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia. This area deserves way more hype than it receives and we’d highly recommend adding it to your Nova Scotia itinerary.
*A huge thank you to Tourism Nova Scotia for sponsoring our trip to the Eastern Shore. All opinions are our own. ‘
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